Friday, April 4, 2014

Mally EverColor Poreless Face Defender Review

Mally Poreless Face Defender Review
Price: $40 for 10 grams ($4/gram)                      

CRUELTY FREE!!!

This is a product that has gotten lots of attention, lots of awards, sparked endless discussions, and now, the highest form of flattery, it has inspired numerous dupes & copycats. (Stila, CoverGirl, Youngblood, etc.)

So why all the fuss and is the original really better than the dupes?
Keep reading!
Mally's Poreless Face Defender claims to be a replacement for setting powder, promising a shine-free matte finish and poreless perfection. Those are pretty bold words, but I would expect nothing less from Mally.

I find Mally to be extremely ballsy as a makeup creator. I have NEVER, EVER, seen ANY, makeup artist, makeup salesperson, or especially brand spokesperson, speak out against an entire genre of product in the manner Mally does. She openly says she "hates pressed powder!!!" That is a really risky move. Granted, she had just released her PORELESS FACE DEFENDER, so she was advertising her product, but this demonstrates her confidence in the Defender and her de-crediting the thousands of pressed powders has to count for something right? (Even her own Diamond Un-Powder.)

My thinking is, If she hadn't been 110% certain people would love it, she could have easily found other promotion methods that didn't isolate & bad mouth pressed powder products.

It really is a revolutionary product that will probably help define this generations makeup products, (think MaxFactor PanCake Makeup for the mid 1900's.) This is one of the few truly revolutionary products in that it is a totally unique concept and a totally proprietary formula. 98% of cosmetic formulas are similar or slightly tweaked basic compositions with added serums or skincare or light reflecting something. It is extremely hard to find a totally new cosmetics concept, and that's what Mally's people did!

One blogger described it as a melted down vat of silicone which was left to harden. That's exactly what this seems like and infact, is pretty much what it is.

POLYPROPYLSILSEQUIOXANE is really what makes this so unique. Its obviously a silicone, formed of multiple compounds, and created through a hydrolysis process. Now, it can be found in other products which are a liquid as a secondary ingredient, however, as a solid, it was rarely if ever used before Mally, and now can be found in any of the copycat formulas out there, (just not in as large a quantity and w/other filler ingredients.) While not a primary ingredient, Mally has also used this in her Ultimate Performance Liquid Foundation (which is also a fab product!)

Basically the idea behind the Poreless Face Defender is simple. Anytime you would be using powder you use this instead! It will mattify your look and certainly control minor oil, while smoothing out pores, fine lines, and anyplace your makeup has become flaky or patchy. (It can be used as a primer too.)

I personally prefer this over powder for every day of the week, but, if its a special event, I may use this OVER powder to get rid of the chalky look. You just really need to keep in mind what this is and how to use it. Some people reported it taking off all their makeup, it happened to me initially too, until I learned how to use it.

DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT Even begin to consider swiping this on your face- like at all. You can't even dab it & slightly twist. (Imagine a powder puff on your face when applying it, if you twist or swipe the puff you will still remove or smudge makeup regardless of if you have powder on it or not.)

DO: Apply it just like powder with a puff. lightly dab all over.

DO NOT: Try to "push" the product into your skin like some do with powder. Barely touch it, that's all.

DO NOT: Use so much product that you can see it on the sponge, if you can see it its too much. Use it on your hand or arm and start over.

DO NOT: Swipe the sponge over the compact to get product. Simply dab lightly and you"ll be good.
Many people complained that the sponge would get discolored with their makeup and offer this as proof that it was a poor product, that's false. Any product w/silicone like this will get a powdery finish and will slightly transfer before setting. If your sponge is picking up makeup chances are you:
-either went over the same place more than once on your face, -you used too much product, OR
-your makeup is so melted/skin so oily that you may want to lightly powder before using this.(usually it will be option 1 or 2)

I do believe that some people with extremely oily skin will still need powder. These are the people who have to touch up multiple times a day everyday. If that's you, use this OVER powder. The majority of people with dry-normal skin however, will probably be able to completely substitute powder for the Defender, especially those who don't use an emollient based foundation. If you use a true emollient cream foundation (not cream-powder), try playing around with this to find out if you need powder too. If you have oily skin you may need powder but then, you probably shouldn't use an emollient foundation anyways!

Any thoughts on this?
Have you guys replaced powder with the Defender or do you still need powder?

What about Mally's newer LIQUID version?
Anyone tried both yet?

***side note: the packaging and sponge in the original version was much more practical since the sponge won't fit in the compact now. That's really silly since this was designed for TOUCH UPS! You don't need to use the included sponge, any wedge or cosmetic sponge will work but this one is best. What you can do, although too much hassle for some, is re-pot this and put it into a customized compact. Ill be doing a post on re-potting soon and ill place a link!***

3 comments:

  1. I wish a drugstore brand would make a TRUE dupe to this. It seems so many aware copying but there really just making a dupe closer to Dr. Feelgood from benefit....which really does take my foundation off cuz it's to creamy.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I hear you Rachael! It stinks that there's no cheaper alternative. Have you tried the Face Defender yet or has the price kept you away?

      I'm about 95% sure though that because it's such a unique product and so one-of-a-kind, Mally has at least a proprietary blend and at most a formula/type of patent.

      Polymethylsilsesquioxane costs about $30/kg where as dimethicone is only $3. Granted, you can make a few dozen with that amount, but when you factor in the hydrolysis process, the machinery, labor, distribution & packaging costs it gets pretty expensive.

      That would be my best guess for why the only drugstore options (like CoverGirl's Skin Perfector) use Polymethylsilsesquioxane as an added after thought and not a main ingredient. If it costs them 10% of the selling price for one ingredient they're just not going to bother.

      Check out an HD setting powder that uses only dimethicone/cyclopentasiloxane & silica. It's not AS fine as the face defender but they tend to work alot better than talc-based powders without the side effects (like over-dryness, oxidation, etc) and they won't take your makeup off like a soft-touch or creamy silicone product!

      Mally makes a silicone powder with her Poreless Perfection Skin Finisher but the Face Defender will last 5x as long so that's not a great option for you money wise.

      Here's link (I hope) of the e.l.f. powder which is like $6 and available through their website. Nyx makes one as well which is supposed to be similar but I can't vouch for it.
      [url=http://soundlysensiblebeauty.blogspot.com/2014/04/elf-high-definition-hd-finishing-powder.html](e.l.f. HD Setting Powder Review)[/url]

      The e.l.f. powder may not be as good as Mally's Defender, but it's ALOT less of an initial investment so it's something to consider. It IS as good as Makeup forevers & other high-end brands because again, they're just a blend of Silica & Dimethicone.

      Maybe some day Polymethylsilsesquioxane will be more common in solid form but I think that until they simplify the process Mally's going to have the market cornered.

      At least it's not something you need to rebuy more than every few years though because it lasts FOREVER!!!

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